New York Restaurant

The low-ceilinged, stucco-walled room evokes Arizona 206, but the wine list, full of interesting New World selections, is a happy surprise in a place that visually prepares you for a margarita onslaught. The whimsical menu, too, breaks the mold with unexpected combinations like mole-braised short ribs with jalapeño gnocchi and "Santa Fe shepherd's pie of chili mac and Iggy's jack."

Recommended Dishes: Queso fundido con chorizo ($9), pan-seared pepita-crusted salmon ($18), Santa Fe shepherd's pie ($15).

Voted Best Tequila Bar 2003

This new southwestern fusion outpost offers a dizzying array of 39 tequilas. (And nary a worm in sight.) Order one of the cute margaritas-ranging from basic to prickly-pear cactus flavor-if you're not into doing shots.

Just when the last Ralph Lauren Navajo blanket has been mothballed, along comes Agave, a heartfelt if wayward tribute to the colors, textures and food of the American Southwest. It's a handsome restaurant, with smooth adobe walls, American Indian artifacts on those walls and subdued, flickering light provided by white votive candles.

The menu is very crowded, which is also true of many of the dishes. Beef shortribs, braised in mole Colorado sauce, flight for plate space with a "barbecue" of caramelized onions and jalapeno gnocchi. (More jalapeno, please.) Red snapper fillet stretches the Southwestern concept to the breaking point. It's cooked in a rice-paper wrapper with cilantro, hera Buena, chiles and mango. Pan-roasted pork chop, stuffed with chorizo and manchego cheese, comes with a dirty rice speckled with bits of Serrano ham. The chef, who is Malaysian, loves to sneak spiced meats into his dishes, like the homemade beef jerky that adds interest to blue corn posole stew. Portions are enormous, especially given the modest prices.

I do not think Indian-spiced guacamole is a good idea. But merguez sausage and manchego cheese, the basis for a kind of Mediterranean taco, works perfectly well. So do the squid rings dipped in a corn batter and dipped in chipotle and avocado cream sauces. The list of quesadillas and tacos is extensive and inventive, the vernacular dishes flamboyantly vulgar, like the cryptically named "mother road roadhouse chile," a beef and pork slopfest in which Dos X's beer and chiles play leading roles, or a Santa Fe shepherd's pie made with chili macaroni and jack cheese. The style at Agave is all over the road, but there's a devil-may-care quality to the cooking that wins you over.

When I think I can say it with a straight face, I intend to order the Tesuque seared ahi tuna takaki tostaditas.

Restaurants at 140 Seventh Avenue South seem to last about as long as a J. Lo marriage. But now the space has a contender for long-term status, a comfy Southwestern watery that fits perfectly with the neighborhood. The dining room's hombre theme is refreshingly understated, and the menu goes the authentic route with a few creative twists (similar to the popular DOS Caminos and Hell's Kitchen). Swordfish tacos are simple and wonderful - the fish moist and flavorful - and the spareribs, swimming in bitter mole sauce and served with jalapeno gnocchi, are tender beyond expectation.

Flavors from Mexico, New Mexico and New York

In the eye of a restaurant customer, environment can be everything.

The best dishes are meaningless in an unpleasant atmosphere, while an ordinary meal can be elevated to incredible heights in satisfying surroundings. Luckily - for Agave, the West Village's new Southwest inspired gem, there are no gaping holes in either the cuisine or the setting. In this case, the well prepared, inventive menu is enhanced by the relaxed, elegant ambiance.

Agave's intriguing bar area, with wall-to-wall windows onto Seventh Avenue South, might be a great place to dine. But even better is the dining room, oozing simple Southwest cool from the white and tan color scheme to the soft glow of light illuminating upwards from pockets carved into the walls. Native American art, candles, and even some Georgia O'Keefe-style skulls round out the décor, while fireplaces make the space warm and intimate. The background music was deemed "appropriately soft" by my dinner companion, who told me he judged it both during our conversation and in the brief moment I stepped away from the table.

The staff at Agave adds to the relaxed atmosphere as well. It is obvious the this professional, knowledgeable team works well together, from their comfortable interactions with each other to the smiling ease in which they took orders and delivered tantalizing amuses bouches - warm blue corn chips with a selection of salsas, bean spread, and spiced olives - or special drinks such as the Cointreau-laced Cristini, the Mezcal Ginger, or a number of margaritas. The only problem, in fact, is that you'll have to remember to ask for salt on any of the house's designer margaritas, which might possibly be virgins.

Agave's menu spans a wide range, from traditional Southwestern fare to Latin American influences to straight new American.

The appetizers, for example, came from diverse ends of the spectrum. The Ceviche Vera Cruz featured satisfyingly citrusy marinated red snapper with chiles, fresh cilantro, and a little too much pico de gallo.

The autumn leaves salad, however featured field greens in apple cider vinaigrette with a terrific combination of accents. After the annoyance of having to dress your own salad, the sweet caramelized apples, sharp crumbly cabrales cheese, and rich spiced pecans came together as winningly as Odyssius and Penelope.

The main courses fared almost as well as the starters. Although the menu featured several items of the quesadilla variety, we opted for the more inventive elements. Salmon was dressed up by a pepita crust, adding crunch as well as a nutty flavor, and accompanied by both a flavorful chipotle crema and a smoked vegetable salsa. The skirt steak vaquero, whose vaquero origins seemed unclear, featured slightly sweet rice and beans and the poetically named tumbleweed crisp - very lightly battered onion rings which lived up to their promise of crispness.

The dessert selections perhaps best bridge the gap between New Mexico and New York. The Mexican accents from the kahlua cream on the sweet potato and pecan tart to the plantain riff on a traditional banana split made the cross-continental experience better than any savory items. However, we were in for a disappointment when the kitchen was all out of the enticing plantain split with dulce de leche.

"Whoever ordered the last dulce de leche is evil!" bemoaned my friend. The other sweet selections made up for the tragedy.

Although the difference between a traditional pt au crème and one made with Mexican chocolate wasn't immediately obvious to the casual taster, the rich cross between a mousse and a pudding disappeared without complaint. The mango napoleon, too, combined sweet, perfumed mangoes with creaminess and pastry's crispness, whose beautiful presentation had to be regretfully, demolished by the barbarism of a fork and knife before it could be consumed.

Agave doesn't make the leap from the Southwest to the Northeast perfectly, but then again, it might be impossible to bridge the gap between quesadillas and ceviche without causing some confusion. However, Agave succeeds on the merits of its culinary preparations, many of which are first-rate. Of course, what really confirms that you'll enjoy your Agave evening is the place itself, conveniently located on lower Seventh Avenue. As you know, a relaxed and pleasing environment can ensure an enjoyable meal. The fact that the meal itself is noteworthy only adds to the experience.

It's nice when things go as expected. But it's even nicer when things go better than expected, as was the case on a recent dinner jaunt to AGAVE (pronounced a-gah-vay), a West Village hot spot that bills itself as New Southwestern under the direction of chef Richard Pang.

Hardly another Southwestern flash-in-the-pan, Agave successfully combines culinary creativity with digestive comfort, generous portions and reasonable prices.

Calm, cool and collected, Agave greets visitors warmly with its creamy adobe walls, dignified earthy pottery and one gorgeous latticed ceiling made of spruce and fir. Between the calming décor and the charming crowd, the place sure does offer a retreat from the concrete cruise market that is lower Seventh Avenue in summertime. And who could forget the warm and friendly staff? (notice I didn't say just courteous because they were more than that to every guest we saw coming in and out of the place.)

Before we could even say "cilantro," our table was adorned with colorful munchies in the form of blue tortilla chips and super-fresh guacamole and salsa. Then came the drinks: a blue margarita for me and an apple martini for my guest. Frozen and refreshingly slushy, the margarita was simply intoxicating; its flavor packed a punch but not one you won't recover from. The apple martini, however, was strong enough to fuel a truck - for a couple of thousand miles.

For starters, we spared no expense for the Corn on the Cob ($4). Four bucks may seem like a lot for an ear of corn, but you've never had corn like this. Green Giant who? Grilled to perfection and swathed in chipotle lime butter, we could have devoured a field full of these. A note about the Tuna Tataki Tostaditas ($12) - they're made for an appetizer but strong enough for an entrée. Finely seared, these sumptuous cuts of super fresh fish melted in our mouths.

With some appetizers the size of main courses, you can imagine what the entrees were like. Priced from $9-$18, the quesadillas and tacos are super-sized and serve as main courses. The Grilled Mahi-Mahi Tacos and the Quesadillas with Charred Tomato, Asparagus and Hatch Chile really caught our eye, but we had our sights set on something even bigger. On the recommendation of our waitress, we made short work of the Angus Shortribs ($24) and their accompanying chile-corn mashed potatoes. With carrots and legumes thrown in for good measure, this dish was a magnificent splash of color and sexy flavors. Also tantalizing was the Angus Flat Iron Steak ($22), which, like the tuna, melted in our mouths along with itsside of grilled corn salsa.

For dessert, Agave once again proved itself capable of putting a Southwestern spin on some traditional dishes that normally fail when you mess with them. The Guava Napoleon ($8) with Mexican vanilla bean ice cream was a smooth surprise despite its daunting girth, and my guest proclaimed the Crème Brulee to be the best he'd ever had. It was for me too.

So if you're looking to jump on a bandwagon, jump instead into Agave. In terms of menu, service and décor, the place really outdoes others in its field.

At this West Village newcomer, an encyclopedic menu gives the chefs room to range from their Southwestern base to find global influences for dishes like pan-toasted Gulf blue crab potstickers and tacquitos with merguez sausage and manchego cheese; dine in the sunny streetside atrium, at the backlit bar, in the faux-pueblo dining room or even in the privacy of your own home (they deliver).

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Innovative Southwestern eats served with style, and a smile.

The Scene
Smooth adobe walls, spruce-fir-latticed ceilings and flickering candles help create the stylishly relaxed vibe. Sit by the tall front windows watching West Village strollers, or settle into the warm, spacious back dining room. An informed, unobtrusively friendly staff takes care of newcomers and the slew of Agave addicts alike.

The Food
Fresh, intricately-flavored twists on Southwestern fare, in generous portions. Standout appetizers include red snapper ceviche, lamb and manchego taquitos and perfect guacamole. Quesadillas and tacos are kicked up a notch with barbecued duck picadillo or Maine lobster fillings, accented by mango pico or sweet plantains; well-prepared skirt steak and Angus short ribs with a delicate mole are entree favorites. Cumin croutons, spiced pecans and jicama enhance the hearty salads. Save room for Mexican vanilla creme brulee or cider-glazed, pecan-stuffed apples with ice cream--then come back for one of the best brunches in town.

Insider Tips

Brunch Rocks
With nearly 30 treats to choose from--such as blueberry pancakes with lemon cream cheese, and spicy pressed chicken sandwiches--we can't wait for the weekend.

Drink Up
The bar serves up 30 kinds of tequila and yummy signature cocktails like the Prickly Pear Margarita or mezcal with ginger beer.

A Good Start
Enjoy complimentary blue corn chips with pico, black and green olives and a hummus-like dip before every meal.

Best of Citysearch

2003
2003 Editorial Winner
Margarita

Nominated for
Margarita

Best Margarita 2003
Editorial Winner

Best Margarita 2003
Audience Winner

Best Brunch 2003
Audience Winner

Best Mexican Restaurant 2003
Audience Runner-up

Best New Restaurant 2003
Audience Runner-up